Everything you need to know about the e-cigarette clearomizer.
The clearomizer is the part of your e-cigarette that will produce the vapor, and there are clearomizers for all types of vaping. This guide will help you make the right choice.
The clearomizer is the part of your e-cigarette that will produce the vapour. It is made up of :
There are a multitude of clearomizers to suit all types of vaper. Whether you're looking for a tight draw, high vapor production or great flavour reproduction, you'll have a great choice.
The clearomizer heats the e-liquid and produces the vapor. The coil inside the clearomizer heats and vaporises the e-liquid. The propylene glycol (PG) and Vegetable Glycerin (VG) evaporate at around 50°C. The coil, which consists of a resistive wire and cotton, heats the wire, which is then impregnated with liquid to produce the vapor. The vapor is then inhaled by the vaper through the chimney and drip tip.
Most tanks are made of Pyrex (a very hard glass), a neutral material that does not react to chemicals. Some tanks may be made of polycarbonate(plastic), which was very common in the first generations of clearomizers, only to be replaced by Pyrex tanks. Pyrex tanks are more fragile if dropped, but are completely neutral and do not react to any flavourings, making them a very safe material.
You can also find pod tanks (also known as cartridges), which come in very different shapes and capacities, depending on the model. Generally made of polycarbonate, they can only be fitted to the model of POD for which they have been designed. Pod clearomizers, when pre-filled, will need to be replaced when the liquid runs out. Others can be filled using a silicone cap, with or without a removable coil. The advantage of the pre-filled clearomizer is simplicity: you don't need to worry about filling or changing coil. They are more expensive to buy than conventional equipment, but they make it easy to get started with vaping.
There are three main categories of clearomizers:
Indirect inhalation clearomizers are ideal for beginners. They provide a tight inhalation (weak airflow) very similar to that of a cigarette. Vapor production is satisfactory and flavours are reproduced quite well with this type of equipment. Most are not designed for use with high levels of VG (Vegetable Glycerin). You need to check that the equipment is suitable for your e-liquid, otherwise your coil will be burnt very quickly. A high level of VG produces a thick liquid and requires fairly large feed holes on the coil, otherwise the liquid flow is too weak and the cotton will burn.
MTL = Mouth To Lunge = indirect inhalation
Direct inhalation clearomizer produce a very high level of vapor and often have very low resistance (less than 1 ohm), which generally work with high rate of VG. The vapor is plentiful and very airy and you will not be able to use a very high nicotine strength in this type of equipment (no more than 6 mg/ml nicotine). They are not recommended for beginners, as they do not reproduce the inhalation of a tobacco cigarette. However, they may be suitable for hookah smokers, as the draw will be very similar.
DL = Direct to Lunge = direct to the lungs = direct inhalation
Multi-purpose clearomizer have the special feature of being able to inhale indirectly or directly depending on the position of the air flow (wide open for direct inhalation, and almost closed for indirect inhalation) and the coil used. Ideal for regular users who want to test two different types of vape, or depending on the time of day. (For more information, see the inhalation guide).
There are two main types of connection for clearomizer.
Connections known as 510 are the current standard. They fit almost all batteries on the market. The 510 connection is small and discreet.
The old EGO-type connections, very common in the early days of the e-cigarette, are becoming increasingly rare. An EGO connection can be fitted to a 510 using an adaptor.
A final category is found mostly on pods, where the clearomizers are in cartridge format. The connections are designed exclusively for a single piece of equipment and cannot be adapted to other devices.
The most common capacity of a clearomizer is around 2 ml. This capacity is not a problem for clearomizers with a resistance greater than 1 ohm (so-called indirect inhalation), as consumption is very reasonable. Resistance below 1 ohm can consume a lot of liquid and need to be refilled very frequently. Clearomizers with capacities well in excess of 4 ml are therefore available.
Filling can be done either from the bottom or from the top (top cap). Bottom-filling involves unscrewing the base of the clearomizer. Filling from the top is the simplest and most practical, as the top cap can either be unscrewed or slid out to make way for a filling window. Filling pods is specific to each model and generally involves unclipping a cover to add liquid.
The role of the airflow ring is to regulate the draw of your clearomizer, i.e. the amount of air that will be aspirated. Located at the top or bottom depending on the model, you can adjust the draw according to your needs. They come in the form of holes of different diameters or one or more wide slots. Of course, the wide slots allow a very airy (wide opening) and direct inhalation, whereas the small-diameter holes allow a tighter inhalation (low air flow) and an indirect inhalation.
Some clearomizers don't have an adjustable airflow, so you won't be able to adjust the airflow.
We don't necessarily pay much attention to the drip tip or mouthpiece, but it's very important on your e-cigarette. Depending on its length and diameter, you won't get the same type of vape. The rules to know:
The coil is the consumable part of your clearomizer. Made of cotton and a resistive wire, it's what produces the vapor. A resistance of more than 1 ohm will give a so-called indirect vapor, and a resistance of less than 1 ohm is designed for direct inhalation. (For more information, refer to the guides on coils).
To avoid any stray taste, we recommend cleaning your clearomizer once a month with clean water and no cleaning products. Remember to dry your equipment thoroughly and remove the coil before cleaning (and then change it).
Yes and no. You can adapt 510 or ego connections together using an adaptor. Make sure that the clearomizer is not too large in diameter and protrudes from the box or battery. Clearomizers on pods are often proprietary and cannot be adapted to other battery models.
It all depends on whether you're a beginner or not. For beginners, you should choose a clearomizer for indirect inhalation, which will reproduce the inhalation of a cigarette and be able to withstand high nicotine strength. After a while, with a lower nicotine strength, you can switch to a direct-type clearomizer, which will produce more vapor. It's all a question of taste, as many vapers will stick with an indirect inhalation.
This is a common phenomenon, often occurring when filling your clearomizers. The coil is 'drowned' and cannot evacuate the excess liquid. To stop this happening, simply remove the drip tip and vigorously shake your e-cigarette upside down. The excess liquid will be evacuated. Be careful not to do this over a carpet or a surface that is prone to stains.
There can be several causes for liquid leaks, most of which occur through the airflow. So you need to identify the area of the leak. If it's coming from the glass, it's a poorly fitted or faulty seal, which needs to be replaced or refitted. If the leak is coming through the air flow, the problem is in the coil: you will need to check that there are seals on the coil and retighten it. If the leaks continue, your coil may be at the end of its life and should be replaced. After all these operations, if the leaks are still present, you'll need to check that your e-liquid is suitable for your equipment. Some coil can only withstand high rates of VG (the glycerine is very thick), and if the e-liquid is too fluid (high levels of PG) the leaks will be constant.
You need to clean your clearomizers regularly to remove any residual flavourings. Warm water is perfect for cleaning! Don't use detergents or soaps, which can remain inside your tank. You can also clean your chimney with a cotton bud to remove any impurities. You can also use an ultrasonic cleaner, which is effective in cleaning inaccessible areas. We do not recommend washing the coil in water, as certain chemicals such as chlorine can remain inside the cotton.
Breaking a tank glass is always an unpleasant accident... All that's left to do is replace it with a new one. Fortunately, most models have spare parts. We advise you to bring a spare glass to avoid a Saturday night breakdown.
This is a very common phenomenon in vaping. The first cause is long-term irritation from smoking, which makes your throat too sensitive to the nicotine in the vapor from your e-cigarette. After smoking for several years, tobacco causes a lot of damage to the larynx. Unlike tobacco cigarettes, e-liquids contain no additives to hide the irritating effect of nicotine. When you first start using your vape, you need to break down your vapor intake by directing the vapor into your mouth and only then slowly into your lungs. Just as you would with a conventional cigarette. If the phenomenon persists, you can lower the nicotine strength or use nicotine salts, which are virtually non-irritating and allow you to vape at high nicotine strengths. Your equipment may be unsuitable, causing severe irritation. When you start out, make sure you use resistance of over 1 ohm and avoid all clearomizers with direct inhalation. The vapor is often too strong and above 6mg of nicotine the vapor can become very unpleasant and cause coughing.
Are you looking for a cold, tight vape? You'll need a long, narrow drip tip. Shorter if you want a hotter vape. For a very airy inhalation, choose the shortest and widest possible.
On a battery, "short atomizer" may appear on the screen, indicating that contact is no longer being made. Check the battery charge. Then check the connection between the clearomizer and the battery, clean and aim hard but not too hard. If the problem persists, change the coil, taking care to clean the base of the clearomizer thoroughly. Everything should then be back to normal.
Ah, you've tightened it too much... This is a common occurrence for many vapers. When the clearomizer is tightened too much during reassembly, it can jam during use because of the heat released by the coil. You can place your clearomizer, without the battery, in the freezer for 20 to 30 minutes to shrink the seals. If this solution doesn't work, you'll need a pair of pliers and a cloth to unscrew the whole thing. We advise you never to overtighten your clearomizer. When you screw it in, when the assembly stops turning, don't tighten it any more.
Unfortunately, a twisted thread means that the clearomizer has to be replaced. A bent connection can cause short circuits or excessive overheating of the clearomizer.
First of all, you need to check the type of connection on your drip tip (510, 810, etc.) by looking at the instructions or the product sheet. Note that some drip tips are proprietary and cannot be replaced. If your drip tip has a 510 connection, you can choose any 510 drip tip that will fit in the slot provided.
It all depends on how you use and clean your device. As a general rule, if it's well looked after, it can last at least 1 year, and some even longer. However, first and second generation clearomizers have a shorter lifespan.